This is the final part 6 with the last days in Tokyo. Part one from Tokyo, two from Osaka, three from Onomichi, part four from Kinosaki Onsen and part five from Otsu and Nagoya.
We arrived at Tokyo Station late in the evening, and from there it was just one stop to Ueno Station, a major station in Tokyo. This time, we decided not to experiment any more and to select a traditional hotel nearby. The main advantage of this is that the Skyline Express train starts next to Ueno Station. As the name suggests, this train goes directly to Narita Airport, which is some distance away from central Tokyo. With this station nearby, we could ensure frictionless travel with all our luggage back to the airport on Tuesday morning, our last day. On the subject of luggage, our bags had arrived and were waiting for us in the lobby.
Unlike the other accommodations, we booked individual rooms for me and my cousin. This gave us more privacy and the opportunity to relax during our last few days. This turned out to be especially valuable, as the rooms were rather small compared to the apartments we had stayed in during the previous weeks. As a funny side note, while my cousin and I had a pretty decent view of the nearby construction site and the Sky Tree Tower in the background, my friend and his wife were not so lucky. But see for yourself:
Besides the view, the rooms were pretty standard. We had a big-screen TV, a mini fridge, a tea- and coffee-making set and a Japanese bathtub/shower in the bathroom with an interesting tap that could be used for hand washing and bathing. It was a neat idea, but the dials were a bit complicated to use. Last but not least, there was a bidet toilet like the ones we encountered in every other accommodation. It was a bit annoying that the TV would turn on and play a random TV station or hotel advertisement every time you entered the room. But hey, the remote was always close by. Another thing that was different from most German hotels was that we were given a yukata, an obi band and onsen towels, because the hotel had a rooftop onsen that we could use during our stay.
Naturally, we decided to take this opportunity to relax in the evening. After sorting out our luggage, we went up to the hot onsen. Question for readers who have been following this series:
Of the three onsen places we visited, which one allows entry with tattoos?
A) The public onsen in Osaka
B) Any of the onsen in Kinosaki Onsen
C) The rooftop onsen in Tokyo of our hotel next to Ueno station
As long as the comment section is open, you can submit your answer there.
The onsen in Tokyo had a similar interior and layout to ones we had visited before. There was a washing shower station with a small plastic stool and soap in the corner, a hot indoor onsen pool and an outdoor pool with one bathtub. Again, there was not much space allocated for relaxation. As the onsen was rather small, there was a menu option on the TV in our room to check how crowded the onsen would be. Sadly, there was no option to look down onto the city, most likely due to privacy concerns. Once we were all warmed up and fully relaxed, we went to our rooms and called it a day.
The hunt for souvenirs
Saturday was more or less dedicated to picking up the souvenirs that were still on our to-do lists.
We started the day with breakfast at a nearby café with good reviews that served eggs on toast. Then the hunt for souvenirs could begin. First, we went to a Big Camera store, a hardware retailer that sells electronic devices. As the name might imply, they sell more than just cameras, but also other goods similar to those you would expect to find in a Media Markt here in Germany. The store plays a special jingle on a loop. It’s funny that some train stations in Japan have jingles too. One station even has the same jingle as the electronics store chain. There’s even a Wikipedia page for the train melody! I managed to find a new wristband for my watch in the store and my companions bought a 360° camera, which was cheaper in Japan than in Germany. We also looked at bags and suitcases. The plan was to buy new suitcases to carry the souvenirs back home.
To summarize the suitcase situation: We were allowed two large checked bags and one carry-on bag. I decided to travel light because the large suitcase I have at home only has two wheels, which makes it difficult to roll around while traveling by plane or train. My companions looked for new carry-on suitcases.
Our search for cases led us to another mid-range store near Tokyo Station that day. It featured decent cases at reasonable prices. Next, we went to a store with bargain-quality stock. It was filled from front to back with different kinds of cheap cases. Lastly, we went to another shopping center where we soon discovered that this store was on the other end of the spectrum. Here, you didn’t have to pick up the suitcase; the staff did it for you. Naturally, the bags‘ features and materials were the best, but this came at a price. After all that hunting, I was more and more undecided. I did not want to buy a cheap suitcase that I would have to throw out after one or two trips, nor did I want to buy something expensive that I would not use much.
After our unsuccessful hunt, we went to a nearby ramen shop, where we had stopped just before to plan our next move. The ramen here was decent. Compared by German standards, it was way above average. It’s another sign that you can just go somewhere and get a decent, cheap meal. This ramen was less salty than others we had eaten during our trip, but it was still delicious.
Once we finished dinner, we split up. My cousin wanted to go to Akihabara to shop for manga, my friend and his wife went to Shibuya for clothes and the Pokemon Center and I decided to buy a chef’s knife, which I had planned to do from the start. In Tokyo, there is one street dedicated to cooking supplies: Kappabashi Street. There is a big statue with a chef’s hat at the street crossing where the shops are located. There, you can go into a store that sells knives. If you don’t like the selection, you can go to the next store or the one on the other side of the street. I was overwhelmed by the selection and grew frustrated, so I bought some beautiful ramen bowls in a kitchenware store. After visiting around six different stores, I settled on some selection criteria to narrow down my choices. My knife had to fulfill the following criteria: It must be a Santoku knife, which is a multipurpose knife, with a Granton edge (fluted blade), so food slides better away from the blade’s edge. Obviously, it must be made in Japan. Features like a Damascus-like pattern were optional and I didn’t care if the knife was carbon or stainless steel (both types have advantages and disadvantages). It turned out that, with these criteria, finding a knife was suddenly difficult. Some stores had the right shape, but not the fluted blade. Finally, I found a decent knife with a carbon steel blade and an interesting pattern that wasn’t too expensive in one store.
I headed back to the hotel with my catch, this time on foot, as the distance was walkable. Instead of relaxing in my room, I decided to explore the city on my own for a while, so I walked to Tokyo Station, only one stop away from Ueno Station.
There is a free observation deck next to the station where you can see the trains arriving and leaving, as well as the beautiful main entrance building. We tried to visit during our first days in Tokyo, but it opened late, so we skipped it. This time, I took the time to watch the trains pass by.
On the way down, I decided to check out a park that a friend had recommended. To get there, I first took a train and then walked for a while. On my way, I spotted a strange human centipede statue and a driverless railway crossing the ocean channel toward the other side of the Tokyo Bay area. This seemed like a good idea for the next day, which the same friend who recommended the park also suggested. When I arrived at the park, I noticed that it was already closed for the day. This was strange to me because in Germany, you can roam the parks even at night. Not only do they stay open late, but they also close early in Japan.
Meanwhile, light rain settled in and we planned the evening activities. The question was where to meet up again. The direction of the food was more or less set: Korean barbecue. In our group chat, we discussed where to go and decided on a small street block next to our hotel where several Korean restaurants are located. I headed back to the hotel and when everyone arrived, we met up and went to the area to pick a restaurant. We wandered around a bit while the rain continued to pour. Finally, we found a restaurant that looked inviting from the outside. Unfortunately, the inside was not very welcoming. There were brown antique booths, closed off by blinds to maintain privacy and separate guests from the smoke. When it came time to order, we had serious translation issues and the staff didn’t seem willing to help. We managed to order meat, but the sides one would expect from a real Korean barbecue, like salad or vegetables, were not delivered or even offered. This turned out to be an unpleasant dinner, as the circumstances affected our moods.
After finishing lunch, we went outside to discuss further activities, but our steam had gone away. With the rain and standing outside in the wind, we had other plans: the onsen and bed. We headed back to our hotel. I prepared for the night, but while lying in bed, I contemplated this evening. This could not be it.
Then, someone posted a message asking if anyone had an SD card to test the 360 cam. After some back-and-forth, we had a quest. So I put on my boots and rain jacket and went down to my friends room and picked him up.
We headed to the nearby party district, where we found a bargain store called Don Quijote that was open. Tokyo at night in the rain is a sight I can recommend, but bring an umbrella. Speaking of which, at a nearby convenience store, I bought a transparent, fixed, long umbrella as a souvenir for the evening. I soon noticed that the umbrella did not open automatically like some others do, so I bought a second umbrella that did. When we reached the store, which was still open, we browsed the selection. Since it was nighttime, the store was no longer crowded and we could freely roam around the floors and narrow corridors. In one corner, we found some SD cards, but the brands were unknown and the speed was not as fast as the camera required. Additionally, the prices were quite high. We met a tourist from Vietnam who was looking for the same thing, so we helped him find an SD card with the right specifications. Other electronics shops had already closed, but there are different kinds of convenience stores that sell various goods and are open around the clock. We found some SD cards there, too, but they were the wrong size and speed and quite expensive. We grabbed a beer and wandered around some more in the neon lights of the city. Later, we decided this quest had failed, so we headed back to the hotel for the night.
Odaiba Beach
I woke up early today and checked the group chat. I saw that my friend had already gone to the Starbucks near Ueno Station because everything else was still closed. I got dressed and went after him to plan the day. We discussed possible options, especially the issue in our group where some wanted to go out early and others were not so keen. We spontaneously decided to take advantage of the opportunity and headed out to the first temple we visited in Tokyo: the Asakusa Shrine. The crowds were smaller there and every shop was still closed or in the process of opening. There were already some other tourists around. If you really want the place to yourself, you have to get up even earlier. After walking around the temple grounds, we went to the nearby alleys. One building immediately stood out: the flashy „Amuse,“ which, after a quick search, revealed a pachinko parlor inside. According to the online schedule and the advertisements outside, the place wouldn’t open for another hour and a half. Strangely, a man with a megaphone was handing out paper slips to passing pedestrians. Upon closer inspection, we saw that these slips were waiting numbers to get into the venue. In front, to the side and up the balcony, we saw people already lined up waiting to get in. It was strange to see people waiting in line on a Sunday morning to play at their favorite gambling machine.
Our next stop was the large hardware store next to the train station. There, we examined the selection of storage media again and found some with the right size and speed, as well as a recognizable brand. After comparing prices, however, we noticed something strange. The SD cards were more expensive than in Germany. Much more, to be precise: around eight times as much for the same card from the same manufacturer. This seems to be a common occurrence, with some people complaining about it on Reddit. A bit confused, we left the store to grab some breakfast. A nearby bakery sold various pastries. We went to the square in front of the shops and told the others where to go. They had gotten up by then. Just outside the big store was a smaller, independent store that sold SD cards. There, we could get a different brand with the right class for a reasonable price.
Following breakfast, we made plans for the day. I suggested going to Odaiba Beach and using the train and bridge that I had spotted the day before. So, we went down into the depths of the train station toward the starting point of the automated line. One tip: If you stand in the front row and let one train pass, you can get the driver’s view to yourself. The same goes for seats in the back. The automated train is a really interesting ride. Not only can you sit in the front, but it’s also more like a vehicle because there are no tracks, only a paved road. To reach the bridge, the train first ascends a large spiral to reach the correct elevation. Then, the main bridge has two levels with four lanes of traffic and the train travels between the lower-deck roads.
There are several stations where you can get off at Odaiba Beach. We took the last one and walked back to the first station. From there, you can explore some parks and a shopping mall featuring a large statue of a robot called Unicorn Gundam.
The mall was open on Sunday, so we took the opportunity to look for souvenirs, suitcases and an insulated water bottle. Then, we headed out to the beachfront, where a Thai-themed restaurant was located in a cinema complex. There was a great view of the bridge and Tokyo’s skyline from the window. Sadly, the staff was not very quick to deliver our lunch. I had a light salad with green beans, which were delicious, but the restaurant’s theme was far more fascinating.
On our way back to the train station, we walked along the promenade and noticed that there would be a fireworks display that evening. Since we had walked around enough and wanted to finally buy suitcases at the mid-tier store we had visited the day before, we decided to head back to the city. When we reached the store, I still struggled with whether I should buy a suitcase there or not. Then, I overheard my cousin, who wanted matching suitcases, but was already traveling with his big red suitcase. I had an idea: What if I bought his suitcase, so he could get a matching set at the store? Deal done! I had a new suitcase that wasn’t too expensive and had the features I wanted and he was able to buy a matching pair.
Back at the hotel, we stowed our luggage and switched suitcases. After resting in our rooms for a while, my friend suggested we visit the Sky Tree to see if we could see the fireworks from there. We went to the train station and after a couple of stops, we reached the base of the tower. From afar, the tower looks big, but when you’re at the base, you notice that it’s built on a mountain of shops and restaurants that form its base. First, you have to find the entrance in the maze of stores. When we finally arrived, we checked out the view from the top and noticed that we wouldn’t be able to see the fireworks because clouds had settled around the tower. There was even a sign at the entrance indicating the expected viewing distance and as we stood in line, the sign predicted a smaller radius than what would be required to see the bridge and Odaiba beach.
Somehow, there was a food festival at the base of the tower. Since my cousin hadn’t eaten much at the Thai restaurant, we went there while my friend and his wife checked out some stores in the mall.
The next question was where to end the evening, as the festival would not suffice. After searching the surrounding area, we found a „Beer Museum“ in a tower with a selection of international beers and fried goods. We tried different beers from around the world and had fried chicken and potatoes. We had a good time. After dinner, we headed back to Ueno Station and our hotel.
There is a pedestrian party zone next to Ueno Station with lots of bars, so we decided to check it out. After walking around, we randomly selected a beer place. Since it was dry outside, we sat down and had a round of beers and snacks. During the evening, we chatted with the staff and made plans for our last full day in Tokyo.
What else?
Since it was our last day in Tokyo, we decided to get up early and head to a nearby Starbucks again, since most other places wouldn’t open until later. Over coffee, we decided what to do. I was recommended to go to Sunshine City, a complex in Tokyo with various shops and attractions. My friend and his wife wanted to go to a different area, so we split up and went our separate ways. Honestly, I struggled to find good places to go, especially since we had already visited most of the popular destinations during our first stay. This surprised me, especially in such a big city. I decided to exclude any places that would require a fee, which ruled out some parks and attractions that you might find while searching for things to do. Sunshine City was recommended to me, so we went there.
After exiting the train station, we walked in a random direction for a while, but soon noticed that there were only offices and streets around us. So, we headed in the opposite direction toward Sunshine City. To get there, we first had to walk a while underground through the train station. It was fascinating how many people, exits and narrow corridors were present. Once we exited on the other side, we arrived in a pedestrian zone where the stores were about to open. We took this opportunity to check out a furniture store, which offered an interesting perspective on lifestyle and home design. Then, we finally arrived at Sunshine City.
The „city“ is concentrated within a block that includes a small park, an array of specialty stores and a skyscraper housing government offices, restaurants and an observation deck. Since we had time and it was a weekday, we decided to go up. The entry price was reduced to 700 ¥ (around 4.5 €). First, we tried the restaurant floor, which is just below the observation deck, but the directions there told us to go back down and enter through the other entrance. It was a bit confusing, but we managed to find the elevator entrance. After a brief wait, we went back up and bought tickets. The view is different, and it’s interesting to see the city from another angle. This skyscraper is not as close to other tall buildings as the Shibuya Sky, which we could see in the distance. The observation deck encircles the entire tower, but there is no outdoor section. There are other activities, such as sitting on fake grass with picnic blankets provided, holiday swings, and several photo op spots. Overall, I would say that the Shibuya Sky was a better experience.
We went back down to the shopping area again. There was a Poke Center and a Snoopy Store. It’s fascinating how much money people can spend on trading cards. There’s even an extra line for paying and you have to wait a while to pay.
Meanwhile, the others had arrived at the tower. We met them in a nearby park and decided what to do next. My cousin wanted to buy souvenirs at another location, while the rest of us wanted to have lunch. We split up again and went to the food court in the shopping center. There were different restaurants set up. Since we had dumplings on our bucket list, we went to the dumpling store. The place was actually quite good and had a set lunch menu with an extra mini rice bowl. My friend ate the strangest thing of our trip at this place. If you recall, he tried fried chicken feet in the last episodes. After that, we headed back to the hotel to meet up again.
Our next plan was to go to a regular supermarket and buy groceries that aren’t usually available in Germany. We selected a nearby store and went shopping. The store’s layout was quite similar to larger German chain stores, so we bought many different base sauces for soup, rice or meat. We also bought spices, snacks and tea. Then, it was time to go back to the hotel and prepare for the evening.
Since it was our last evening, we decided to have a special, fancy dinner: Shabu shabu. It’s a Japanese hot pot dish with thinly sliced meat and vegetables boiled in a soup base. We selected a place close to the first temple that had great reviews and an all-you-can-eat, all-you-can-drink menu option. Before our reservation, however, we had some time to spare, so instead of waiting at the hotel, we walked around the temple area and spent the last of our yen. I managed to spend my money wisely because I wanted to buy a new belt and a shop that sold different belts was still open. Then, we headed to the restaurant. The meal was delicious because you could pick fresh vegetables from a buffet and there was a great selection. The meat was thinly sliced and the soup base we chose was savory and tasty. All in all, it was a great way to spend our last evening.
After we were all stuffed, we decided to walk back to the hotel and use the onsen one last time.
The flight back
I woke up pretty early and finally received a response from a friend back in Germany. The question was what kind of chips she preferred. My task at six in the morning was clear: find those chips! I went to the nearby convenience store and found the desired treat. I spent some time checking the bags. Meanwhile, the clerk peeked around the corner to see what I was doing in the aisle at that time of day, with a WTF expression he went back to the counter. I bought all the chips they had of this flavor because I had some space left in my suitcase and then I headed back to the hotel.
At the agreed-upon time, we met at the entrance of the hotel. As planned, it was easy to get to the Skyline Express and we boarded the train that took us to the airport.
We had some spare time here to use up our remaining change and empty our IC travel cards. Fortunately, the card was accepted at the convenience stores, even at the airport, so it was a good place to use up the remaining balance. Another option we took was to buy stickers at a shop that had just opened for the day. Then, we went through security and checked in our bags and waited for our plane to depart.
On the way there, we flew over Asia. On the way back, however, we took the route over the North Pole. This route offered fascinating views of our planet from a unique perspective. The landscape was completely white, dotted with the occasional mountain and the scale was hard to comprehend. The flight was really long. You check the clock and notice that some time has passed, yet you still have to sit for several more hours in this can. Other than that, the flight was uneventful. I used the time to watch some series. As we landed, I was grateful to finally be back.
While waiting for my train at the station, I experienced the usual DB issues: A 30-minute delay, people not waiting in line and people blocking the entryway for those exiting the train. There are some things I will definitely miss.